|   
 
    |  |   Polyester
(PET)
 
 
 Polyester
yarn and fiber
   
  
    | Introduction Polyester began as a group of polymers in W.H.
      Carothers' laboratory. Carothers was working for DuPont at the time when
      he discovered that alcohols and carboxyl acids could be successfully
      combined to form fibers. Polyester was put on the back burner, however,
      once Carothers discovered nylon. A group of British scientists--J.R.
      Whinfield, J.T. Dickson, W.K. Birtwhistle, and C.G. Ritchie--took up
      Carothers' work in 1939. In 1941 they created the first polyester fiber
      called Terylene. In 1946 DuPont bought all legal rights from the Brits and
      came up with another polyester fiber which they named Dacron.
       In 1958 another polyester fiber called Kodel was
      developed by Eastman Chemical Products, Inc. The polyester market kept
      expanding. Since it was such an inexpensive and durable fiber, many small
      textile mills emerged all over the country--many located in old gas
      stations--to produce cheap polyester apparel items. Polyester experienced
      a constant growth until the 1970s when sales drastically declined due to
      the negative public image that emerged in the late 60s as a result of the
      infamous polyester double-knit fabric! Today, polyester is still widely regarded as a
      "cheap, uncomfortable" fiber, but even now this image is slowly
      beginning to change with the emergence of polyester luxury fibers such as
      polyester micro fiber. Polyester is currently defined as: "Long-chain
      polymers chemically composed of at least 85 percent by weight of an ester
      and a di-hydric alcohol and a terephthalic acid." The name
      "polyester" refers to the linkage of several monomers (esters)
      within the fiber. Esters are formed when alcohol reacts with a carboxylic
      acid.
       There are many possible variations of the generic
      polyester fiber. Two that are currently produced commercially are
      polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and poly-1,4, cyclohexylene dimethylene
      (PCDT). A third polyester fiber, polyethylene oxybenzoate (PEB) was
      manufactured in Japan during the 1970s and early 1980s under the trade
      name A-Tell®. Production of this fiber was discontinued, because it did
      not offer enough performance advantages to remain competitive in the
      textile market.  
   |  
    | Properties 
        
          | Specific weight | 1,22 to 1,38 g/cm3 |  
          | Tenacity | up to 85 cN/tex |  
          | Moisture regain | 0,2 - 0,5 % |  
          | Effects to heat | ironing temperature 150 - 200° C melts at 249 - 288° C
 |  
        strongresistant to stretching and shrinkingresistant to most chemicalsquick dryingcrisp and resilient when wet or drywrinkle resistantmildew resistantabrasion resistantable to retain heat-set pleats and
          creaseseasily washed 
 |  
    | Applications Because of their many desirable qualities, polyester
      fibers and fabrics have many uses. Polyester is often used in outerwear because of its
      high tenacity and durability. It is a strong fiber and consequently can
      withstand strong and repetitive movements. Its hydrophobic property makes
      it ideal for garments and jackets that are to be used in wet or damp
      environments - coating the fabric with a water-resistant finish
      intensifies this effect. Many jackets and quilted garments are made of
      polyester. Since polyester can be molded into almost any shape, certain
      insulating properties can be built-in to the fiber. One method is to
      create hollow fibers:  This process traps air inside the fiber which is
      then heated by the body. The warm air stays inside and helps warm the body
      in cool weather. A second method is to use crimped polyester in a
      fiberfill product. The crimp helps to keep in warm air. Polyester is an
      ideal fiber to use for this since it will retain its shape, unlike its
      cotton and wool counterparts that tend to flatten out over time,
      significantly reducing their ability to trap warm air. Polyester is used in pants, shirts, suits, and bed
      sheets either by itself or as a blend, because of its wrinkle-resistant
      property and its ability to retain its shape. Since these garments are
      frequently worn and washed, its stain-resistance and durability are also
      desirable. Polyester also has industrial uses as well, such as
      carpets, filters, synthetic artery replacements, ropes, and films.  
        
          |  | For every form of clothing |  
          |  | carpets, curtains,
            draperies, sheets and pillow cases, wall coverings and upholstery |  
          |  | fiberfill for various
            products; automobile upholstery, fire hose, power belting, ropes and
            nets, sewing thread, tire cord, sails, v-belts, floppy disk liners |    |  
    | Grades   |  |  
    | Processability Most polyesters are made from petroleum from which
      the constituent acids and alcohols are derived. The types of processes
      that manufacturers use vary, and little is known about specific
      manufacturing processes, because the companies want to keep them a secret
      in order to remain competitive. Here is a general description of how
      polyester is synthesized: 
 1) Polymerization
 Condensation polymerization occurs when the acid and alcohol are reacted
      in a vacuum at high temperatures. The polymerized material is extruded in
      the form of a ribbon onto a casting trough or cooling wheel. After the
      ribbon hardens, it is cut into chips.
 
 2) Spinning
 The chips are dried and then put into hopper reservoirs for melting.
      Polyester is a "melt spun" fiber, which means that it is heated,
      extruded through the spinnerets, and cools upon hitting the air. From
      there it is wound around cylinders.
 
 3) Drawing
 The fibers are then hot stretched until they are about five times their
      original length in order to decrease their width. The drawing results in a
      optimal orientation of the molecules inside the fiber and results in a
      perfect strength.
   Variations on the Basic Polyester Different fibers can be created by doing one or more
      of the following: 
        Adding a delusterant (dulling agent) - Polyester is a naturally bright fiber, but can be made dull or
          semi-dull by the addition of a TiO2.
 
Changing the shape of the holes in the spinneretThe simplest and most common shape is a circle, but by changing the
          shape of the spinneret, square, oval, and bean-shaped fibers can be
          formed. One can even create a hollow fiber. The different shapes
          affect the hand and strength of the fiber.
 
Drawing it out moreDrawing out the fiber to five times its original length is normal, but
          polyester can be stretched even further. Drawing it out more than
          normal may also affect the strength, elasticity, and dye-ability.
 
Adding dye stuffsIn its natural state, polyester is a slightly transparent off-white.
          Adding dye stuffs at the manufacturing stage can create brilliant
          colors like electric blue and atomic red. In this field Setila
          is one of the World leader with its DECORA
          programme, especially for the automotive industry where extremely high
          fastness requirements are demanded
 
CrimpingWhen the fiber is drawn out it is long and smooth. Crimping can give
          the fiber more texture and bulk and can increase its insulation
          properties, as well as its elasticity. Another word for this is
          texturizing.
   Making Yarns After the fiber itself is created, it is made into a
      yarn. There are two types of polyester yarns: filament and spun.  Filament yarns are made by taking the single
      polyester filaments, grouping them together and then twisting or
      air-entangling them to make them workable. A monofilament yarn has just
      one, single polyester fiber that is usually not twisted. Spun yarns are produced in much the same way as a
      cotton or wool yarn is produced. The long filaments are fist cut into
      short pieces called staple. These are then combined together and spun to
      create a yarn made up of thousands of short filaments.   Blends At this stage, polyester can also be combined with
      other fibers to produce a variety of effects.Polyester and cotton is probably the most famous and popular blend. The
      polyester helps the fabric retain its shape and resist stains and
      wrinkles. The cotton makes the fabric more absorbent and comfortable.
 Polyester is combined with wool to give it
      wrinkle-resistance and shape retention in all kinds of weather. Since
      polyester is stronger than wool, it increases the durability and life of
      the fabric. The wool contributes good draping characteristics and
      elasticity. Polyester and rayon is another popular blend fabric.
      Here again the polyester makes the fabric more resilient and durable, and
      helps it keep its shape. The rayon adds a different texture, has a good
      hand, is good for draping, and is more absorbent. Polyester and nylon produce a strong fabric because
      of nylon's strength and abrasion resistance and polyester's wrinkle-free
      properties. This combination produces a yarn that is strong, durable,
      stable, easy to launder, and resistant to mildew and insects. Problems
      with this blend, however, are that pilling may occur, and it does not have
      a very nice hand. Furthermore, since neither nylon nor polyester is very
      absorbent, the fabric may feel wet and clammy in warm or humid weather.   Weaving After the yarns are made, they are shipped out to
      textile mills to be woven into fabric. Polyester can be made into both
      woven and knitted fabrics (such as the infamous double-knit!)   Finishing Processes Finally, after the fabric is made, one or more of
      the following finishing processes is often used to improve the quality of
      the fabric:  
        Heat setting--creates a permanent shape Singeing--improves the hand, reduces pilling, and
          increases smoothness Anti-static finish--reduces static electricity Water and stain repellency--increases comfort and
          makes it easier to clean; also used for rainwear Resin finishes--increases ease of care Calendaring--increases smoothness and reduces
          pilling Embossing--creates a design and/or luster    |  
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